I can safely say that this is one of the fastest consumer-level 10 megapixel digital SLRs that I've used. While the 9-point autofocus systems on the Canon xTi and Sony A are certainly nothing to sneer at, the point system on the D80 is a cut above. The new processor also seems to keep the camera from slowing down, especially if you're taking one photo right after the other.
But if you have the opportunity to try several of different cameras at the same time, I think that you'll get the same impression that I did that the Nikon D80 is just a bit more responsive the competition. Sometimes, selecting the best digital SLR camera comes down to the tiny things that it does that other camera's don't. I feel it's important then to go over some of the lesser-used features of the D80 that set it apart from other cameras:. The first thing that I noticed when I picked up the Nikon D80 for this guide is that it's one solid hunk of a camera.
Bucking the recent tradition of making digital SLRs smaller examples of this include the Canon xTi and Olympus E and E the D80 is a large camera with a more professional feel to it. The grip is wide and comfortable, and the controls are placed within easy reach of the thumb and index finger of your right hand. The Nikon D80 features two rotating control dials: one on the front of the camera under your index finger and the other on the back under your thumb.
This is a great setup for photographers who want to manually expose, allowing you to quickly set both aperture and shutter speed. One-touch buttons for other common camera settings are arranged along the back left side of the camera.
These include white balance, ISO and quality settings. One of my favorite features of the D80 are two non-descript buttons on the front of the camera body right next to the lens. The first falls nicely under your middle finger assuming you've got your index finger on the shutter release button. Pressing this displays the ISO setting in the viewfinder, an invaluable feature for anyone who enjoys changing the ISO. With one quick press of this button, you can ensure that you're not taking some important photos in plenty of light with your ISO accidentally set to The depth of field preview sets the lens to the aperture that you've selected, so that you can see the effect it's going to have in the camera's viewfinder.
This is an essential feature for close-up and landscape photographers, and the convenient location makes it easy to use. I've always been impressed with how the Nikon digital SLR cameras capture color, and the D80 is no exception.
The Nikon sensors do especially well with primaries: reds, greens and yellows are deeply saturated and create photos with rich color pallets. You also have the option to modify how the camera captures color to either enhance or subdue : for example, selecting the "Vivid" mode makes neutral or bland colors really come to life.
While you don't have the same fine-grain level of control that you have with Picture Styles on the Canon EOS Rebel xTi , the D80's natural color and clarity will produce plenty of images with "wow" factor.
The D80 makes up for this with a native black and white mode along with the ability to convert any color image into black and white using in-camera editing.
The in-camera editing feature also allows you to covert images into sepia and cyanotype. Cyanotype is an ancient printing process that gives photos a blue color tone see an example. The native black an white capture mode is exceptional, producing images with crisp whites, dark blacks and a wonderful balance of gray tones in the middle.
If you're really into black and white photography, then I'd recommend taking photos in black and white rather than converting them from color. I was more impressed by the quality and tonality of the original black and white photos than any of the images I converted either in camera or with software.
One powerful feature of the Nikon D80 is its ability to edit any photo stored on the memory card. You don't need a computer or photo editing software to perform standard tasks like brightening shadows, adding filter effects warming, cooling, etc.
Editing one of your photos is easy: select the effect that you want to apply, select the photo you want to apply it to, make some adjustments to the intensity of the effect and save.
The D80 saves the edited version as a copy, preserving the original photograph. One of the more powerful editing features is called D-Lighting. A limitation of all cameras - film and digital alike - is something called dynamic range. The limitation typically occurs in high-contrast situations: a bright sunny day is the best example. Imagine that you're trying to take a portrait of a friend with black hair wearing a white shirt. In bright sunlight, one of two things is going to happen: either the shirt will be correctly exposed and the hair will be pure black with no detail or the hair will be correctly exposed and the shirt will be pure white.
If you take photos that include strong shadows, you can bring some detail back to the shadow areas by using the D-lighting edit effect. I'll admit that for me, the in-camera editing is more of a novelty than a necessity. Part of the problem is the display: even though the big, bright 2. I also find that it's much easier to make any type of edit on a large 19 inch monitor than on a 2. Think of it this way: in-camera editing is OK for quick one-off changes to your photos if you absolutely must edit an image without a computer or software.
But if you really want to maximize the quality of your photos or edit many at a time , you're going to get better results in less time with a simple editing program like Google's Picasa than you are using the D80's built-in editing mode. The built-in flash unit on the Nikon D80 is quite similar to the flash units on many other digital SLR cameras. While it will certainly help light a scene in a pinch, I would recommend that you go out and find a low-price external flash unit if you're going to be taking a lot of flash photography.
The control of this flash is completely manual hence its low price so it's not a good choice for the beginner or anyone who want an auto-everything flash. On the flip side, this flash is extremely powerful, can be bounced off ceilings and walls, and is highly regarded for its durability by many professional photographers.
If you'd like to learn more about external off-camera flash, I recommend that you read through the Lighting guide at Strobist.
The EN-EL3e battery not only lasts a long time up to 2, images per charge according to Nikon specs it also has a real-time fuel gauge. Most digital SLR camera batteries display three status levels: full charge, half charge and dead empty. There have been many times when I've had a battery with "half a charge" that died within 5 minutes of use. The real-time fuel gauge helps you tell exactly how much charge is left so you're never left with an expensive digital SLR that can't take any photos.
If you enjoy taking trips and don't want to be charging the battery all the time, a second is a worthwhile investment. While this lens is a HUGE improvement over many of the other standard kit lenses that I have used, it still has some flaws that you should be aware of.
You won't notice any issues if you're taking photos of people, landscapes and other subjects that don't have straight edges. But the minute you photograph a building it becomes apparent: even if you compose the image in the viewfinder so that the sides of the building are straight up and down, in the final image you'll notice that what should appear as a straight line is actually bowed.
More expensive lenses correct for pincushion to ensure that every line in your photo is perfectly straight unless you're using a VERY wide angle lens, in which case the distortion is natural.
Supported Versions Dragonframe 5. Manual Lens to Avoid Flicker To avoid flicker that can be caused by electronically controlled aperture lenses, please use a manual Nikon lens 'D' series.
Setup Instructions. Power your camera by AC power if possible. Close any other applications that might connect to your camera. See Picture Make sure Dropbox is not a client of the camera. You may need to quit Google Backup and Sync , since it can interfere with the camera even if you turn off syncing.
If you have anti-virus software, white-list Dragonframe so that it may access your camera. Create a new scene or open an existing scene. Dragonframe will not connect to your camera unless you have a scene open. Set the Mode Dial to Manual M. Set Auto Image Rotation to Off.
You may need to remove the camera's memory card. The camera will not connect unless you do this. Connect your camera to the computer with an appropriate USB cable.
0コメント